Friday, July 21, 2006

Bedugul


Pura Bedugul Lake
Originally uploaded by jazzwave.
A pleasant climate, splendid views, water sports on scenic Lake Bratan, botanical gardens, fresh tropical fruits and vegetables-these are but a few of the things Bedugul offers. Located 1,500 m above sea level, it gets chilly by late afternoon, so bring your sweater. This is a favorite weekend retreat for Jakartans and the local Balinese bourgeoisie.

Bedugul's layout can be somewhat confusing, especially if you arrive in late afternoon after the clouds have descended. Coming from the south, there are two signposts to watch out for: "Bedugul 0.2 km" and "Bedugul." One might expect to find the village here, but instead the road turns sharply to the left, with a smaller road leading off to the right. The latter leads to the Bedugul Hotel on the southwestern shore of the lake.

The main road continues past a number of hotels on the left until it reaches the village of Bedugul proper. Here you find shops, a few restaurants, a bank, telephone office (wartel, a market selling local produce (including flowers, coffee and vanilla) and a lane leading up to the botanical gardens (Kebun Raya).

Beyond the village the road descends towards the lake, turning left at the Ashram Hotel. The road then continues north to Candi Kuning. On the right hand side is the entrance to the Pura Ulun Danu and other temples. A line of souvenir shops indicates the way. A fee of Rpl,000 is required to enter the temple.

The walk from Bedugul market to the Ashram Hotel takes about 10 minutes. The temples on the shore are another 10 minutes further on. From the market to the entrance of the botanical gardens takes about 15 minutes on foot.

Getting Around
Bedugul is situated on the main road connecting north and south Bali. It is the perfect place to stop for a night on an island tour. Rent a car and explore the area at you own pace.

If you are going by public transport, catch a bemo from Ubung terminal in Denpasar to Bedugul for Rp3,000. The fare is the same from Singaraja. The nicest way to get around Bedugul is on foot in the invigorating mountain air. Or charter a bemo, carrying up to seven persons, for about $10-$20 a day.

Most people traveling between the highland resorts of Kintamani and Bedugul travel the circuitous route via Singaraja and the north coast to get from one to another. An alternative route, used by very few people, leads south through the mountains, offering spectacular scenery and a close look at the vanilla and coffee producing area of the island.

The road is good enough for cars or motorbikes, although there are several places where deep potholes make driving fast a big risk. It's best is to allow half a day for the route between Kintamani and Luwus, where you meet the main road between Denpasar and Bedugul. This way you can stop along the way, have a coffee in one of the villages and enjoy a leisurely ride.

From Kintamani, follow the main road north until just beyond Penulisan and the Tegeh Koripan temple. Take the small road that branches off to the left towards Belantih village. Continue west past Belantih to Lampu and the neighboring village of Catur, where the road bends south. Lawak village marks the beginning of the vanilla-growing region where the harvest can often be seen drying in shelters.

After Belok (keep right) head for Pelaga. Just before the village there's a sharp right turn which leads to a shortcut west to Lake Bratan. Not many Balinese expose their vehicles to this road though, as chances of ruining them or at least getting stuck are pretty high. Another reason to avoid the shortcut and continue south is that the best has yet to come.

Beyond Pelaga and Kiadan, the elevated area around Nungkung and Sandakan is extremely beautiful. A bit further ahead lies the Islamic village of Angan Tiga with it's small mosque. The next village, Kerta, has a police post and even a bank. Past the bank take the right turn to Bedugul (the road continues straight to Denpasar which is only 32 km away). The stretch of road between Kerta and Luwus via Peria is extremely bad. In Luwus you reach the main road. Turn right for Bedugul or left for Mengwi and Denpasar.

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